Serendipity Travel - Adventure - Sri Lanka

It was a seven-hour train ride to get to Kandy. The ancient diesel locomotive snaked its way up the misty mountains at twenty kilometres per hour, jerking and pulling and huffing and puffing taking tremendous strain while trying to reach our sacred destination.

Kandy is located at the centre of Sri Lanka, 125 km away from Colombo and is generally recognised as the island nation's cultural capital. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage site list and is a worthwhile stop when travelling Sri Lanka.

The majestic town of Kandy is the last kingdom of Sri Lanka. Since it was conquered by the British only around 1815 you can still see the living traditions. Kandyans are usually proud of their heritage. Since the western elements have played comparatively little role in the city, most Kandyans uphold Buddhist values and tend towards a traditional lifestyle.

Kandy is in the 'cultural triangle' in the country's centre and the authorities try to retain traditional values as much as possible. The situation has changed somewhat recently because of a large number of immigrants coming from other parts of the country. So don't expect to find the honest Kandyans that they describe in the colonial literature, in Kandy today. Be careful whom you trust, a worldwide travelling tip.

Kandy is a peaceful city and most Kandyans consider themselves special and more blessed to be living in this holy land. Kandy is home to around 120,000 inhabitants and is the second largest city in Sri Lanka. Bustling markets, a new shopping centre and busy streets means it has much more of a 'city' feel. Kandy is a business hub, but Kandyan people both work hard and play hard, and Kandy offers a vibrant and varied restaurant and bar nightlife.

Because Kandyans are very spiritual and religious, there are also a lot of festivities throughout the year in the city, like the procession of the "Buddha's Tooth" (Esala Perahera). The hustle and bustle of Kandy is juxtaposed by the serene views of the mountains and its large lake, which you can see from the vantage points in the city. As the city is at a high altitude the climate to is slightly cooler than in the north of the country and at sea level. Temperatures are unlikely go below the mid twenties during the day, anywhere in Sri Lanka.

We had no bookings when we arrived in Kandy but that was not a problem. In no time we were swarmed with Tuk-Tuk drivers promising us the world. We settled on an arrogant fellow named Bernard. He was a self serving chap who really wanted to influence our journey to his advantage, but soon realised that that would not happen.

Bernard tried to settle us with one of his connection in one dingy homestay after another, however we soon persuaded him away from his touting ways. We had promised to splash out a little on accommodation in Kandy.

In the distance we saw Oso Hotel, lit up in electric blue light. We wanted to stay somewhere that had the views of the sacred sights but Oso was fully booked.

On the other side of the street we found the nearly completed Janora Hills Hotel. The rooms were beautiful and cool but out of our price range. A little negotiation with Lakmali the matriarch of the hotel and the deal was sealed, we could take their daughter's room in their private quarters in the penthouse of the hotel at a third of the normal price.

We were so happy to live with another fabulous family. Grandma Siva welcomed us to the family compound, sat us down on the balcony facing the massive statue of Buddha and told us to feel at home. We did, we could not have wished for a better view.

That night we went out and met the Aussies. It was an interesting night but the staff at the Irish pub on the main road in Kandy were not the friendly folk we were use to and we truly do not recommend that experience.

What we also need to warn you about are the shenanigans in the Lord Kataragama Temple. From the outside this is one of the most beautiful and colourful temples we had seen in Sri Lanka, situated in Sri Skanda Kumara Devala Lane. But be warned you will most likely get scammed. I am happy to confirm we were not the only ones who were fleeced.

This is what happened to Val from Brighton UK, as she reports on Trip Adviser. "Blessings for sale: A disgrace to Buddhism - Sadly, our visit to this attractive, multi faith temple was marred by our being rushed in to see the 'high priest' (Buddhist) who just happened still to be there . We were basically instructed to donate 1000 rupees each (we are a couple) plus 1000 rupees for each of our 2 children to receive a blessing, and the wrist tie to prove it. I see that this also happened to someone last year. Extra was also needed for a photograph! We didn't have much Sri Lankan cash but he was gracious enough to take English money! Obviously we were naive and got taken for a ride- but tuk tuk drivers trying to cheat us is one thing- a follower of the Buddha quite another. Be prepared if you come here." Val's experience is a replica of what happened to us.

It was real funny how when we realised we were being scammed we just started giggling and couldn't keep a straight face. We managed to only be scammed for 1000 rupees, (About R80). We pretended that that was all the money we had and we promised to bring the rest in the morning when we would be attending our full blessing ceremony.

When travelling in Sri Lanka be prepared to part with some money to the very experienced conman, consider it a taxation for the incredible time that you have there. Like any traveller you have to keep your wits about you, but its all a part of the adventure and mostly harmless. Next week we travel to little England, come with in The Bugle.